OK, Russia here we come! Very excited about seeing Vladivostok. The Aeroflot flight over from Seoul was just fine, which means we didn't die. (Steve) has a low standard for success when it comes to flying). The days of Aeroflot planes being flying deathtraps are long gone, they're now running Airbuses just like everyone else and the service beats Air Canada (I know I know, another low bar).
Not raining yet. Flying into Vladivostock
These don't look like airliners...
Short final into the airport.
The eagle has landed.
Passport, please!
LOL..I had gone through immigration first. I explained to the nice lady, that Steve was deaf, so when it is his turn to come through, could she please speak clear and loud. She smiles and nods. As soon as I step away, Steve steps up to the counter. She immediately closes the door and seals off the area. Steve looks at me with the WTF look. I smile, she smiles and he is looking a little worried. No worries, she is processing him and then going for coffee. LOL..welcome to Russia!
Coming out of the airport we ran into our first batch of Russian taxi drivers. They meet you at the exit of all Russian airports and train stations, (commonly called "the where you go" gang) and while some are pretty good, the majority are not. No meters in the cabs, so if you don't arrange the fare before getting in you may have to sell your children to get back out. First time in Russia, we're fresh meat, say no more.
This was not a Taxi. We took a 'where you go' driver. He was actually really good. It took him quite awhile to find our little boutique hotel as it was tucked away on some street that was nameless. I wanted to point out the seat covers..they were beautiful.
Vladivostok was a closed city to foreigners from 1958 - 1992. Some books say it finally opened up when the Mafia shoot outs were part of business deals. It quickly established itself as the most prosperous and dynamic city in the far east (as far as trade and transport went). In 2012, with the Apec Summit, it built 2 new suspension bridges and a new university campus. Today, it is considered Russia's rising powerhouse. So with it being a closed city for most of the Soviet Union years, it means that if you ever managed to get there you're probably still there. But now it's wide open, and it has turned into a very interesting place with lots of things to do and see, none of which were done or seen by Debbi and Steve.
One of the many harbors in Vladivostok, about 2 blocks from the train station.
It was 14C, it was raining, and the rain was going sideways...it was ug-ga-ly! Steve estimates the rain was probably landing in the Sea of Okhotsk. Our Russian friends told us that the Russian Far East and Siberia gets very hot in summer, so make sure you pack light clothing. I can only attribute this to the Russian sense of humour. It was 3 blocks from our hotel to the train station, and that is the sum total of what we saw in Vladivostok.
This city is the 'unofficial capital of the Far East' and one of Russia's most important commercial and naval bases. It boasts of being charming, with striking architecture and sandy beaches on many of its islands... BUT... we will never know. But we did experience the very 'hilly' streets...all because, our hotel was at the top of the street and it was all downhill to the train station. While at the train station, this Chinese fellow started taking photo's of Deb. He seemed to find her intriguing like the kids in the airport. Steve came along and then he took several photo's of the both of us. I started wondering if I had stuff hanging off me.
Luckily that 3-block circle included a good restaurant, quite high-end, which sported a glassed-in patio thing with lots of propane radiant heaters. The seafood in Vladivostok is to die for. The first night Steve had a halibut plate, and it had the consistency of crab and tasted incredible. Best he ever had. Deb had a prawn and fish roll thing, also wonderful, and very well presented. Two great meals with a couple drinks each was I think $50. We were definitely back the next night.
At the other end of the food chain... The train station is immediately adjacent to the ferry terminal, which has a number of shopping opportunities and a little cafe. The next day we were feeling peaked, needed breakfast and didn't want to brave the weather, so decided to give it a try. They had these plates made up from god knows what, to show you what you 'could order', and there was one with a prehistoric-looking egg and a dubious assortment of meat, but the real thing would surely be better than the plastic display plate, right? So Steve ordered that one by pointing, and she picked it up and popped it into the microwave and gave it back. And he ate it. I still can't believe he ate that thing 😋 Word of advice: Do not eat at the Train Station.
The offending breakfast on the left. Beer dissolves anything.
These are Matryoshka – The Russian Nesting Doll or sometimes called Babushka Dolls. It's hard to find a symbol of Russia more popular than the traditional Russian nesting doll. These are decorated wooden dolls "with a secret". Of course, not all dolls are created equal.
This jacket, fake Blue Fox was 850 Rubles or $18.00 CND
We stayed at a little Boutique Hotel, mainly because the first hotel you stay in is supposed to register you as having entered the country. Air B&B's do not do that. Victoria was our host and it turns out that she wants to be a journalist but is afraid now, because just recently, an outspoken journalist has disappeared. But she is thinking maybe being a journalist for the arts will be safer.
So, we bombed out on Vladivostok which is really a shame but there you go. The brochures looked nice though... Our very first Trans-Siberian train left at 9pm on the second night, a 12-hour overnight trip to Khabarovsk.
We had printed reservations off the internet, and the drill is, you go to a machine that offers a number of options, all in Cyrillic. After much trial and error you discover that the top left one takes you to The Happy Place, and it poops out a 3-digit number on a slip of paper. When that number comes up on a screen you can go to a wicket and talk to a nice lady who will loudly berate you if your number hasn't actually come up yet. You give her the reservations, she asks you a number of questions in Russian which Steve can't hear anyway, you shrug and try to look both helpless and stupid which is really not much of a challenge, she sighs and prints out the tickets. Piece of cake. It was a very nervous-making procedure for us, but once you get through it the first time it's just fine. AND, thank god for Google Translate!!!
Kilometre 9288 post, the end of the line, but the beginning for us. The rail line actually starts in Moscow and moves east. All trains run on Moscow time and it doesn't matter which time zone you are currently in. Always check your ticket to find out if you are coming or going or if you are on time.
All the trains between Vladivostok and Khabarovsk are night trains, as the line passes very close to the Chinese border and the area is still very sensitive. They fought a shooting war there not too long ago... But this was mid-June, we got maybe 2 hours in the evening and 4 hours in the morning to see the countryside, which to Steve, was absolutely fascinating. Endless grasslands with flowers without an animal, a track, or any sign of disturbance. Eventually he realized they were water-meadows. Never seen anything like it. A bit more climate change, they will be prime anaconda habitat. For me, Debbi, I found it interesting only because Steve knows his sticks and rocks and gave me a running commentary on when the vegetation started to change and why.
Our route is the red line. Vladivostock to the next stop, Khabarovsk.
Our 1st night on the famous Trans Siberian Railway...let the adventure begin.
There is approximately 7079 kms from the border between the Far East and the Western edge of Siberia. Then you still have from that edge, which are the Ural Mountains, to Moscow. As we travel across, the Rivers we crossed were: Ulan Ude, Vladivostock, Onon, Shilka, Amur, Zeya and Bira...and let me tell you, these rivers are absolutely beautiful. Big, beautiful, lazy rivers. We both were gob smacked at their presence.
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